It's been a while since I've written, and for good reason...
After getting overwhelming support for the start of our compost project (thank you!!), three scary letters under our doorstep sent me and two fellow interns reeling to Guatemala City. Extortion is common in Guatemala - too common, actually, for anyone who owns a business or is related to someone who does (and in rural guate everyone is related... so...yea). Apparently the home we were living in has been extorted many-a-time over the last few years, belonging as it is to one of the more powerful families in Rabinal. Although the city is safe (and so are we), it gave us a scare - and so after a group trip to the capital to visit some BTS advisers, I fled to San Lucas Toliman, on the south shores of Lago Atitlan, to stay at the Mesoamerican Permaculture Institute (IMAP) with a friend until elections boiled over and things could return to 'normal'.
IMAP could be a meditation retreat in any part of the world: circular sleeping room under green canopies with a view of the lake, an outdoor kitchen with a door turned onto its side as a table, tiny stools on a stoop between the brush. It was healing to just BE there - diving into clear Atitlan in the mornings, devouring Chomsky books from the self, cooking real meals, getting my hands deep in dirt beneath shaded trees.
Elections happened on Sunday, and San Lucas was shakier than the rest of the country: two ballot boxes lay uncounted after UNE announced that it's candidate had been reelected mayor. "Winning" by a slim 42 votes, ANN, the opposing party, was not pleased - crowds multiplied in the parque central to protest while someone burned the remaining uncounted ballots, threatening to torch the municipality as the opposition hunted down the apparent victor with yells of lynching and murder (remember: we were tucked away in the woods, isolated 3km from town). Gas bombs went off in the distance, helicopters flew in the mountains overhead. I lay tucked in bed, nose buried in Profit over People.
By Tuesday chaos had subsided and it was time to leave paradise, so I caught a bus at dawn to the capital. Legs tucked into the plastic covered seats of a used American school bus, I sat with my backpack at my feet and my 'sack' under my arm. I nodded off after fiercely sticking my cheek to the window to avoid a man carrying a guitar who was determined to make me believe in God's salvation. Somewhere between my missed conversion and sleep, my wallet disappeared. I stupidly had not put extra cash into my backpack or my pocket, so stepping off the bus into a roaring, honking Guate, I was left with 25 centavos in my pocket. Lucky for me I still had my cellphone. I called a friend who called another friend, and in no time Humberto rolled up in his falling-apart 1960s box-car, in a whirlwind telling me stories of his years in exile in Mexico before putting me on a bus to Baja Verapaz. I reached Rabinal before dark.
Elsa and I have a new home, for now: a teal green house on the other side of the city, run by a great-grandmother from Guatemala City who moved here for her "bones". The house's concrete walls are decayed, a grandiose poise to the place that has long been overgrown and buried.
Last night I unrolled an old mattress to sleep, bags still packed. 'My' room smells of mold and has already flooded... ants, spiders, moths and salamanders to keep me company. Tomorrow I'll begin a more thorough search for a new home - hopefully this one will last longer. Seems I don't have a very good track record...